Rust Bluing is one of our premier bluing finishes. The procedure for preparing metal for Slow Rust Bluing is the same as preparing for Hot Salt Bluing. However, exceptional care must be taken during a slow rust application as to how the parts are handled and how the rusting chemical is applied, since any oil spot can ruin an otherwise perfect finish job. The process involves letting the parts sit 10-12 hours in a humidity box, boiling the rust to convert it to black oxide, allowing it to cool, and carding off and polishing each coat. These steps are then repeated eight to ten times prior to reassembly. One disadvantage to Slow Rust Bluing is the cost. It is a very involved process requiring a significant time commitment. However, if you are looking for an original Winchester finish, it is the best choice for your collector grade restoration.
If you are looking to add a unique finishing touch of color to your firearm, nitre bluing is the answer. Although it doesn't wear as well as hot salt bluing, nitre bluing (also known as fire blue) creates a beautiful array of colors to personalize your design.
Unlike conventional hot salt bluing, nitre blue can produce a lustrous range of colors from a pale yellow "straw" color like the older Luger parts to a bright peacock or "fire blue" finish used on Colt and Smith & Wesson revolvers of the 1850's through the 1930's.
The process involves immersion of the part into a hot liquid potassium nitrate, which generates an evenly colored finish. Like all bluing processes, the most important step is metal preparation. The metal surfaces are block sanded to remove all imperfections and then polished to a mirror shine just before the bluing process, which avoids oxidation of the steel. Although Fire Blue creates a lustrous finish, it is not as durable as conventional hot salt bluing, turning a patina color with wear.
Fire Blue yields a gorgeous appearance whether it's the entire firearm, or just a splash of color with the hammer, trigger, pins and screws, which look great next to Color Case Hardening or high-polished Nickel Plating.
Stainless Steel Bluing
For those gun enthusiasts who want the durability of stainless steel while maintaining the beauty and non-reflective blue finish.
Hot Salt Blue
One of the most delicate finishing processes is the bluing operation. Bluing is not a coating, it's a rusting process. Our hot tank solution uses a caustic solution of Nitrate salts and is heated to near 300 degrees F. Since bluing actually highlights imperfections in the metal, special care must be exercised in the preparation and polishing. If possible we chemically remove the old finish. We then begin with block polishing to remove imperfections while maintaining sharp edges and crisp lettering. Block polishing also helps prevent the rippling effect created by uneven buffing. Our polishing proceeds through 240, 320 and 400 rouge grits to duplicate the factory production finish. To produce our high gloss mirror finish, we continue polishing with 500, gray, and finally white (equal to 2500 grit). To achieve a low gloss matte finish, the metal is block polished, glass bead blasted and then finally blued.
We also match factory finishes when asked.
Parkerizing is a practical finish because of its properties. It is a phosphate coating that actually creates capillaries and micro-cavities which retain oils and rust preservative compounds. In addition, it cushions moving metal against electro-chemical corrosion, the most common type, involving both oxidation and reduction reactions. Mil-spec Parkerizing will hold lubricants, rust preservatives, and is non-reflective, which makes it the logical finish for the working gun.
BLUING – Metal Prep Charges May Apply Due to Condition Hand polish time runs 45.00 per hr
Hot Salt Bluing
Bead Blast Finish $200
Factory Finish $295
Master Finish $395
Rust Bluing From $250
Nitre Bluing Small Parts/Accessories For One Firearm $95/package
Firearm Remarking for Restoration POR
Special Inscriptions/Company Logos Also Available
Firearm Appraisal and Evaluation Available